If you are short on time and really want to see as much of the country and attractions as possible, arrange a pre-packaged trip. While I like to explore the less touristy and see the real culture of a country... the pace of life here combined with the minimal tourism (except Machu Picchu) makes it next to impossible without having a month to spare.
Despite this I have managed to see some truly amazing things: Machu Picchu is a must. No surprise. Expect to spend half your budget here, the prices of Aguas Calientes are so incredibly inflated. Wear a ton of DEET. You cannot see them but you'll get eaten alive by sand flies. Stop and spend a night in Ollyanta on your way back to Cusco, likely one of my favorite places in Peru. The best company, a cute hotel and amazing lemonade may be the real reason.
Certainly attempt to make it to Huaraz. Again, arrange your trekking in advance or expect to go alone and pay inflated prices. Most of the treks are a minimum of 5 days plus one day to acclimatize. The better treks are upwards of 8 or 9 days. Huaraz itself is really just a layover and not an exciting city to hang out in. But if you need to acclimatize or have a day to spare Laguna 69 is a MUST. The hike there is painful at almsot 16,ooo ft, but well worth the dizzy glory.
Tarapoto again is a layover town. The city feels a bit bigger than Huaraz. No one speaks english here. Be wise (unlike me) and at least bring a dictionary. Even more than Huaraz a pre-booked package is best here, it seems that everything runs out of a resort just outside of town called Puerto Palmeras. While you can take taxis or scooter mobiles to some of the sites you'll be doing it alone and paying heavily for it. If you are looking to escape tourists, enjoy some warm weather and still have a little civilization, this is a good place.
Overnight buses were discouraged in the guide books, but I found them to be rather convenient, comfortable and plenty safe. Maybe I was just lucky. :)
My spanish has reached all new levels of ridiculous, but i'd like to think its endearing to those trying to understand. Its amazing how far you can get with just a few words if you know the right ones.
I've become an avid fan of Yaca. And while explaining to my mother what the root vegetable is, discovered eating too much of the wrong kind of Yaca that is not correctly prepared will lead to a paralytic disease. Minor detail.
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
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